Cutting a Hardanger Fiddle Bridge
Updated: Aug 26
The video below demonstrates how I cut a Hardanger fiddle bridge, from preparing the bridge blank through the final fitting. You can watch the video, then use the steps below as a written reference while cutting your own bridge. At the bottom of the post, you can also download a PDF with the critical Hardanger fiddle bridge dimensions for use at the workbench.
How to Cut a Hardanger Fiddle Bridge
Preparing the Hardanger Fiddle Bridge Blank
Obtain a high-quality maple bridge blank measuring at least 50 mm wide × 40 mm tall × 5 mm thick.
Determine the orientation of the blank, with the longest rays oriented toward the back. Scribe 5 mm thickness at the feet and 3–4 mm at the top, then sand or plane to thickness.
Mark the front, back, top, and centerline of the bridge blank. Mark the critical dimensions on the fiddle body, including the vibrating string length, centerline, bass bar, eye width, soundpost position, and edge of the blank.
Scribe the approximate curvature of the fiddle body onto the bridge. Use a spindle sander to establish the 90° angle between the back of the bridge and the body.
Fit the blank in the sanding jig, checking the angle between the bridge and the belly. Mark perpendicular guidelines for reference during the rest of the process.
Mark the bottom face with pencil. Sand with 80-grit, followed by 320-grit sandpaper, until the pencil marks are removed. Remark between grits so you can see that the entire surface has been sanded.
Establish the string height. Prick the E- and G-string locations with a straightedge, then measure upward from the prick points according to the desired action:
(desired height above fingerboard end) × (string length / fingerboard length)* + 1 mm
*The string-length-to-fingerboard-length ratio is typically 6/5, or 1.2.
Using a curvature template or compass, mark the desired curvature between the two string-height marks. Carve or sand to the line.
Holding the bridge in position, sight down the fingerboard channel to mark the high and low extremes of the channel. Establish the understring bridge location between these two points, closer to the top if space allows.
Transfer the remaining critical dimensions from the PDF to the bridge blank.
Sketch the final bridge outline onto the blank.
Cut out the bridge outline using a jeweler's saw. Use a brad-point bit to start the interior oval, then feed the jeweler's saw blade through the hole.
Scribe 4.5 mm along the bottom and 1.5 mm along the top, then sand or plane to thickness.
Finishing the Hardanger Fiddle Bridge
At this point, the remaining work is essentially the same as cutting a standard violin bridge:
Fine-fit the feet using chalk, graphite, carbon paper, grease pencil, or another marking method to identify areas to remove.
Establish the final height by marking the E- and G-string positions. File the grooves until the action is correct, then refine the top shape and curvature. Make sure the strings do not sit too deeply in their grooves.
Plane to the final thickness profile and use a scraper to blend the curves.
Refine the shape and outline with a knife. Wetting the endgrain can help it carve smoothly. Add the decorative carvings at this stage. By the end, every surface should have been finished with a cutting tool.
Chamfer the understring bridge and file the grooves for the understrings.
If desired, color the bridge slightly by rubbing it in carpet with a small amount of dry burnt umber pigment.
Place a bridge parchment on the E string.
String up the fiddle and hear it play!
Hardanger Fiddle Bridge Dimensions PDF
Download the Hardanger fiddle bridge critical dimensions guide below for a convenient benchtop reference when cutting future bridges.
